Thinking About Burma

The recent harsh government crackdown in Myanmar on pro-reform demonstrators has saddened me. I hope significant pressure can be brought to bear by the world community (especially China, the regime's primary enabler) to open this beautiful country.

Two years ago this month, my wife and I spent eight days in Burma. This was one of my all-time favorite trips. We found the people were warm and out-going, and the country quite beautiful. We were in Bagan, Inle Lake, and Yangon (Rangoon). Here are a few thoughts and photos.

I loved the ancient holy city of Bagan (formerly Pagan). It's home to 4,000 Buddhist temples and pagodas. It's said in Bagan that if you close your eyes, spin around, and point your finger, you'll be pointing at a temple, We tried this a number of times and it always worked.

One of Bagan's most famous temples is Ananda. Inside it are four thirty foot tall statues of Buddha (one of which is pictured below left). Below right are two Burmese children.

The high point of our trip was Inle Lake in the Shan state. The lake itself is quite large, and is laced with canals at its edges.

Here (below left), our ferryman takes us to our lodge. Note that he's using the customary Intha method of paddling with his leg. Not only does this give him greater propulsion. it also free up his arms if he wants to fish. Below right is a local woman carrying wood on her head.

Every village has its own temple. One of the villages on the southern part of Inle Lake has a monastery in which the monks have taught cats to jump through hoops. The monk told me that the calico (below left) is his "number one" performer.

Burma's most famous temple is the Schwedagon in Yangon. It's a vast complex of pavillions and pagodas. The place buzzes with families, visitors, and pilgrims. Here I sit with four young monks (below right). I joked with them that we could be a basketball team (I'd be the center). Lots of fun.

Governments come and go. People endure. This current repressive government will have to allow reform or be replaced.

I hope to return to Burma within the next few years (perhaps to go deeper into the Shan state).

Comments

[Otto]

To me, your "people endure" comment hits the mark. It also reminds me of the different roles creativity can play around the world. In places like Myanmar and Zimbabwe daily acts of creativity often represent a mix of utility and some form of happiness or joy - however small. It keeps people going.

Wouldn't it be great if this creativity could be better connected internationally?

[Lewis Green]

Roger,

We have so much work to do that it seems overwhelming most days. Most of my efforts remain focused on Latin America, as that is the part of the world I know best and where so many of my friends have shared their own personal stories.

My prayers are with Burma. However, early on in my social activism I learned we do best when we focus most. Thank you for sharing.

[Shakespeare's Fool]

Roger,
Thank you for the first hand report.
You gave me a different and much needed
view of Burma.
John

[Wendy]

What strikes me about this conflict is that the Buddhism of the monks and most of the Burmese people pervades even the military, maybe not in the values they live by (obviously) but in their hope for future incarnations. When the monks turn their alms bowls upside down and refuse alms from the military, the military lose the opportunity to gain "merit." This affects their future incarnations.

A friend just sent me the following quote from Nobel Peace Prize recipient, Aung San Suu Kyi: "Fearlessness may be a gift but perhaps more precious is the courage acquired through endeavour, courage that comes from cultivating the habit of refusing to let fear dictate one's actions..."

How is fear alive and well in Burma (or in any war)? How is fearlessness assisting?

[Roger von Oech]

Otto: Thanks for your comment. I've not been to Zimbabwe, but from what I've read it certainly seems that Robert Mugabe's policies have created a hell-hole.

Lewis: "I learned we do best when we focus most." Good advice.

John: I still recommend traveling to Burma.

Wendy: Thanks for your insights. As you know, Burma is 87% Buddhist. Let us hope that "fearlessness" continues to be practiced. Let us also hope that the Chinese government "puts the screws to" the military regime to "reform" the country. [The latter will take a lot of "hope," as it seems less likely.] Also, I think you will have to hold your breath a very long time before the UN does anything meaningful there.